This is the Paris Itinerary that will take you to all the good spots, charming outdoor activities, amusing walks, admire landmarks and monuments, activities that go beyond the most touristy spots, and get to know in depth the culture.
It is often said that in France tourists are not very welcome and that there is certain rudeness towards them. I experienced the total opposite: French people is very kind, answer in French to your questions and force you to be part of their culture and go beyond your own limitations.
There are a lot of scammers as in any city, specially around the Sacre Coeur in Montmartre, ignore all the people holding boards with petitions, as this is not true, don't get hooked by the friendship bracelet guys, and just pretty much ignore whoever wants to lure you to do something.
Is Paris safe for a solo traveler?
Yes. It is very safe. I explored a lot by myself, and also met a girl in a museum who was traveling by herself and I guarantee is safe. Now, as a safety measure, if an area you are walking through starts getting sketchy, just go back on your tracks to the same safe spot and search for public transportation or an Uber. During the night don't walk by yourself especially in sketchy, isolated, lonely areas. Be careful with scammers.
How to get around Paris?
Let's start with this most typical question. Walking through Paris is a huge wave of visual pleasure, and as in several cities in Europe (not all of them and not all the areas) avoiding the walk is missing the opportunity to absorb the culture, to fully enrich yourself of observing and interacting.
Paris (exactly like London) is divided into zones when it comes to public transportation. For example the main attractions are all in zone 1,2, and 3, but if you want to visit places like Versailles, which is in another zone, the most typical passes won't work and you will have to purchase a separated ticket to ride the train that takes you there.
Subway: The subway is awesome in Paris, very frequent, easy to use, not confusing at all (I say this as a New Yorker, very used to take the subway). To use the subway you need a Navigo card. What type of card to get if you are a tourist and how?
If you are a tourist and you are staying for a week or more get a Navigo Easy Pass at the machines that are at almost every main train station and subway station. Once you select the type of card, you have to select the amount of rides you want to add to that card. The more rides you had the cheaper the fare per ride. You can pay either with coins (exact change) or credit card. You can also get it at the front desk of the subway stations if there is anyone working at that moment. There is another card/pass you can get that offers you unlimited rides for an entire week, which price is also based on the zones you are traveling through. This pass only works from Monday through Sunday no matter what. That means that, if the pass was purchased on a Wednesday, it will stop working on the Sunday of that same week. So this pass is only convenient if you are arriving on a Monday and leaving on a Sunday, or if somehow you have to ride the metro several times a day.
Scooter/bike: If riding a scooter or bike careful with all the experienced bikers around you. There is an app to use bikes and scooters, I recommend to stick with the popular: Bird and Lime, since the local bike Vélib is better for locals because it requires a subscription.
Uber: It works perfectly fine, the only thing that it could be a little bit tricky is that most of the drivers only speak French, or sometimes other languages but no English. If you are expecting to give indications or to suggest alternative routes and you do not speak French it could be challenging.
Where to stay in Paris?
I know what comes to your mind. You have seen these popular videos of people having amazing breakfast in their robes with the view of the Eiffel Tower on the background. This could be fun for only one night if you want to experience this moment (it will be very expensive as well) but I do not recommend to stay close to the Eiffel Tower because it can get very unsafe at night, and from all the beautiful picturesque areas, this one it isn't nice.
I recommend three neighborhoods:
Le Marais:
Architectonically beautiful. Culturally rich since hosts plenty of museums. Shops, wine spots, restaurants, boutiques, department stores. It is very trendy, clean, well taken care of. A lot of pedestrian streets, markets. It is very safe. The only downside is the distance, it is a neighborhood that by itself offers a lot of entertainment in every category but that will requiere you to make a few train switches to get to other places like Montmartre or the Eiffel Tower, Trocadero and other tourist attractions.
Saint-Germain-des-Press:
Very clean and posh, also safe within the blocks that confmorm this area. Very centric as well, strategic location close to Le Marais, easy access to Tuileries and Eiffel Tower. And a lot of restaurants and very popular cafes : Ralph Lauren Cafe, Les Deux Magots, Cafe de Flore.
Montmartre:
Here is where I chose to stay because this happens to be one of the most romantic neighborhoods. Food options are infinite, and turning around the corner to look straight at the Sacre Coeur was an absolute advantage. When booking your stay in Montmartre be aware that there is a red light district and to make sure the place is not located there.
Things to do in Paris:
I am going to break all the activities into neighborhoods, in that way you organize the activities according to neighborhoods to make an efficient route and not to waste time going back and forth.
Le Marais:
Neighborhood with very cute shops, restaurants, etc. next to Tuileries neighborhood.
l'Hôtel de Sully
This is in the Jewish Quarter and it is perfect to add to your walk route.
Place des Vosges
Perfect for a picnic, rest on the grass and drink wine (if weather permitting)
Walk by La Place du Marché-Sainte-Catherine (square with cafes) which is right next to Hotel de Sully
Musée Cognacq-Jay
This a very cute, small museum. It takes only 20/25 minutes to see it all. It has family reliques and paintings, among furtniture. It is nice to add as a quick stop on a walk, just to make it more enriching.
Musée National Picasso-Paris
This museum is only 12 euros, it has pantings from very renowned artists along with primarily the work of Picasso, also Renoir, Matisse, and Monet. Very few people, no lines, had the chance to stare at the paintings with no one pushing me. Really a 10/10 experience. Far from a tourist trap, offers all the famous artists but since it doesn't have the same popularity as the Louvre or others, it is out of the radar.
For updated informtion visit their official website
Le Village Saint-Paul
This is an antique market for those who like to collect treasures. Love it to bring a little piece of France with you back home, an authentic art work, or lamp stand, or vase.
Marché des Enfants Rouges
Located on Rue de Bretagne, this market offers all sorts of fresh produce and flowers. They have an extensive selection of cheese, wine, bites, and even restaurants. There are also stalls with accessories and art. Opens Friday/Sat/Sun/Tuesday 8:30 a.m to 8:30 pm
Hotel Soubise Musee
Just a 9 min walk from Marché des Enfants Rouges, this is another spot that is not crowded and has very good reviews. Locals have a peaceful moment showing up to the outdoor area to have their work break or lunch. Tickets can't be purchased ahead, only at the entrance. It was closed on Tuesdays the last time I visited, please send an email to check hours.
Sézane
This is a French staple. I love this brand and in France is cheaper than in the US since there are no additional taxes. I' ve been fascinated by the garments designed by Sezane for a long time. If you like shopping and are looking for Parisian outfits this is the right place.
Officine Universelle Buly
Here you can get monogramed and unique items, hair brushes, tooth brushes, mirror cases and fragances.
Opens 11 am-7 pm (check on website for updates
Located on 19 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004.
Bars in le Marais
A Lot Of Wine
Really like the vibes of this spot, they even have a street set up to drink on the sidewalk and sitting on the curb. As it is very small you need reservations, make sure to call to secure your spot.
54 Rue de l'Hôtel de ville, 75004 Paris, France.
Bar Les Marronniers
For a lively moment, during weekends it gets very crowded, it is more of a party bar.
Le Perchoir Rooftop Bar
This is in the outskirts of Le Marais, if you want a rooftop to have views of the city and enjoy of a drink this is the spot.
La Belle Hortense
The atmosphere is friendly and comfortable. The baguette tradition with cheese and ham is beyond, this is the perfect blend between books, cheese and wine. I highly recommend the rosé on the menu that is not bubbly-they only have one option as far as I know-, it is crisp and fresh, perfect and refreshing.
Jazz 38Riv
This is a Jazz Club, to check tickets, and hours of operation visit their website.
Food in Le Marais
Carette
Very popular for its excellent hot chocolate with a lot of whipped cream. They have multiple locations but in my opinion the best is right by Place des Vosges.
Camile $$$
This bistro parisien has wonderful reviews and is very popular amongs the neighboors of Le Marais.
A Petit Au Cheval
I highly recommend this gorgeous spot that will completely make you feel like a part of Paris.
La Favorite Saint Paul’s
Now, if you look for a trendy spot to take pictures, this is where you wanna go.
La Chaise au Plafond https://www.lachaiseauplafond.fr/en/menus/
Wednesday through Sunday
9 am - 2 am
Sacha Finkelsztajn
This is a deli, and they have sandwiches, bagels, pies. Ideal to stop by, get something to go, and enjoy at at Place des Vosges.
Montmartre:
Moulin Rouge
First off, tickets for the spectacle at the Moulin Rouge are very pricey, you might want to consider doing this on a special occassion: birthday, anniversary, etc. Prices with taxes and fees round per ticket at 200 euros minimum. Another thing I want to clarify is that there will be in fact women completely uncovered from the waist and up dancing for over two hours. I think it was very interesting experience. At the very beggining, or for at least 5 minutes you wil be wondering what the heck is this and even laugh. It is also narrated in French so is easy to lose the line of the plot. I liked the show generally speaking, there were some acts that looked very bizare and ricdiculous, and others that were fantastic, really for every taste
Murs de Je T’Aime
They are temporarily closed as they renovate the green space around it but you can still see it from the distance since there is a fence.
Rue des Martyrs
Very popular street in Montmartre, that consist of a few blocks.
À la Mère de Famille
Pastries, chocolates and more sweet treats. The pain au chocolat is very tasty.
Musee de la Vie Romantique
No lines to get in, beautiful garden, peaceful. It is for free. I visited early on a Tuesday morning and had it all for myself, eventually a few people started to arrive. Never too crowded. It might take about 20 minutes to visit, and then is perfect to grab something at the coffee shop located in their garden, and enjoy of the flowers and trees.
Place Du Tertre
This is a square in Montmartre, where all restaurants meet. Painters gather around with their own creations. There are musicians playing instruments, cafes, and a lot of gift shops.
Sacre Coeur
This is one of the main atractions of Montmartre, even early in the morning it gets packed. It is really impressive to see, even from the distance when you turn into the street that leads you to the Sacre Cour, seeing it in the horizon feels incredible. There are a lot of steps to get to the top, but all the flowers and green around it is thriving during spring and it makes the walk up hill very pleaseant. There is a long line to get in, which I didn't do. Tickets should be purchased many weeks in advance. Be aware that many scams happen around the Sacre Coeur, for instance a group of people who pretend to be deaf and to collect money to help, and they actually pickpocket you while you sign petitions that aren't real, or even donate money that they keep because these are fake donations. Then we also have the bracelet people, a few guys that want to gift you a bracelet but then ask you for money. Ignore them and keep walking.
Food in Montmartre
La Crémaillère 1900
Seatting for breakfast facing the sidewalk is great, they laso have an amazing garden on the back. Coffee here is great and other items from the menu, but I do not think they do a good job with the avocado toast, so I do not recommend that item of the menu.
PAIN PAIN
Fabulous bakery! I am a big fan of eating pastries for breakfast and this is an excelent place to pick up a variety of them and bring them with you along with a cup of coffee. They don't have a seatting area. Before 10 a.m is perfect, otherwise it gets too crowded.
Chez Eugene
Kiss to the chef! very delicious, good wine menu. French soup on point. The creme brule: fantastic!
Au Cadete de Gascogne
Another good place to have a cafe while watching how the painters in Place du Tertre start to set up their stalls. The crepe with chocolate and whipped cream is a good sugar boost to start a morning full of activities.
Pink Mama
This is Italian cuisine. I recommend this to tourists who have tried French cuisine and didn't like it, or to locals. I think that if you are in France for first time you should try authentic French food. This restaurant is not only popular for its food, but also for its colorful table set up and the decoration.
La Maison Rose
This is a cafe and small restaurant in a corner, famous for being part of one episode on Emily in Paris.
Le Bon Bock
This is my favorite restaurant in Paris. It has it all: The atmosphere, the delightful food, decent list of wines. Owned by locals. As a general rule I would never order steak in France since meat and cooking methods are different and France it is not well known for the steak. That said, I don't recommend the steak. The duck with sweet potatoes and mashed potatoes it will be a festin to your palate. The menu is only in French, so definitely a whole adventure.
Tuileries area
I've decided is easier to denominate the area as Tuileries because of the gardens as a recognizable reference, this area is known as Champs Elysees and Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois. The Garnier Palace, for instance along with the galleries are a little further north but is a 15 minute walk.
Garnier Palace
There are a few different ticket options, but no matter what you pick get your tickets in advance!
You can either visit the Garnier for opera time, or just have a guided tour or non-guided visit. The Garnier Palace opens at 10 a.m and even before the opening there is a line of a block. If you are a ticket holder you do not have to line up, just go straight to the front with your ticket ready to get scanned. There is security lines and the waiting for that is up to 10 minutes.
Galleries Lafayette Haussmann and their rooftop
To get to the observation deck , which is the rooftop, you need to take the escalators that are on the left of the main entrance of "La Cupole" building, all the way to the 6th floor. From the 06th where there is a food court take the escalators to the 8th floor. The views are beautiful, sunset time is ideal but the most crowded moment. The rooftop opens at 10 a.m, and thats when is the best to visit.
This is totally for free.
Opera Market
Located on 29 Rue des Petit Champs, this is a picturesque deli, ideal to buy things for a picnic or just walk by passing it on the way to the Tuileries gardens. Very cute little grocery with the best flowers.
Jardin du Palais Royal
Free entrance. These are wonderful and peaceful gardens, around noon is the best time to go, visited mostly by locals, this is almost invisible to tourists. You can walk through it towards your next activity: The louvre is a block away, and also Tuileries Gardens, as well as plenty of atractions.
For opening hours check the official website.
Jardin des Tuileries
This is probably the most touristy spot along with The Eiffel Tower and The Louvre. It is insanely crowded and where most of pickpocketers hangout. This is a huge area and because of it you might be able to find your own corner of privacy, but when adding yourself to the walk, it is impossible to avoid multittudes. I have to admit is still nice to be outdoors and if you are a tourist it's not like you have to walk through it every day, this is almost a once in a lifetime situation.
Jardin du Petit-Palais
Worth the visit. Lines to get into this museum are only a 2 minute long wait, even going through security is fast. It does receive plenty of visitors but nothing crazy like not being able to walk.
The cafe is closed for renovations but the patio/garden has tables to sit and relax for a few minutes.
Hôtel de la Marine Museum
This is my favorite museum. Architectonically rich and delightful. I always get my tickets in advance but this is another amazing museum that doesn't have lines, and because people often prioritize The Louvre they skip these gems. Which is actually good for people like me, who like to enjoy the visit, not being pushded, and being able to actually contemplate a piece of art without a group of people taking pictures in front of it. My favorite part was the immersive experience, at the front desk when checking in, they will provide you with a set of headphones. The headphones have a sort of gps, and according to the room you enter it plays noises and you are able to hear little stories: When you enter the bathroom the rumor of water running will be heard, and as the chambers are walked a narrator will tell you the history of each room and who slept there.
Museum Le orangerie
A big fan of the precious Water Lilies of Claude Monet? Get ready for the instagram photoshoot that has place in the Water Lilies oval room. Ticket holders skip the line, and the line can get very long. I suggest to go very early in the morning if possible. This museum has a lot of renowned painters, such as Van Gogh. The visit takes about 45 minutes. The Water Lilies are overwhelming and are huge, it could be good if you find a spot to sit for a few minutes to admire them.
Luxury shopping:
France is a great destination for luxury shopping at local brands since products are cheaper there. On top of that if you are a tourist rememeber to bring your passport with you to get a 12 percent off.
Jardins des Champs-Elysees
An ideal and pefect walk starts here and ends at the Arc de Triomphe, enjoying every little discover, stopping by and setting your own pace to make the most of it.
Food in Tuileries:
Dior Cafe:
When approaching Dior, there will be a few entrances. There is the Dior museum which is a separate entrance and there is a long line to get in. And there is a Dior restaurant and a Cafe, as well as a bar, which access is through the front door of the department store. Having an Entire meal is expensive, but for the experience is good to have a cup of coffee and walk around once done.
Le Grand Palais:
I found this restaurant just walking around and looking for a non-expensive place to eat in a very expensive area that I happened to be at. Excellent escargot with garlic and herbs. This was my first time trying escargot, texture felt weird at the beggining, the trick is not to look at it once you get it ot of the shell.
Laduree:
Perfect for a sweet tooth. Pastries, macarons, coffee and more.
Laserre:
France is famous for attention to minimal detail and dedication when it comes to food. This restaurant represents the finest cuisine, and that can be seen on the price ($$$$). These are the typical meals that look very artisty in the dish, but it is not fulfilling. Flavors, presentation and color have a fundamental role. If you are very hungry after a day of activities and visit this restaurant you will end up the night hungry still. If you go to experience something unique, or to celebrate a special occasion, or maybe you are a chef or food advocate, this is your place then.
Eiffel Tower Sparkles
It lights up for first time right after sunset: let say sunset time is at 8:30, it will light up for first time at 9 p.m
The latest it goes in the summer is 1 a.m as it last time. Being 11 p.m the last time that it will sparkle during winter time. The best view of the Eiffel tower is from Trocadero. this is a very open area and it will be hard not to completely have the whole scene of the tower sparkling. it does get extremely crowded. Another option is to do a river cruise –links below–
There are many ways to enjoy the view of the Eiffel Tower without dropping your wallet at an expensive restaurant, like having a picnic close by for instance. It will be crowded, that's for sure but no one will cover the view.
Tickets to actually enter the eiffel tower are sold at the official website:
Seine Cruises:
Cheapest option: This is 16 euros
This option is 55 euros
Green River cruises: for a more elegant option
Restaurant cruise:
To enjoy of a night in the river and see the tower sparklying while you enjoy of the ride and a full dinner course.
Restaurants with Eiffel Tower views
If you do still have the wish to eat at a restauant with Eiffel Tower views even if its pricey here there are two options:
Bambini
This restaurant gained a lot of popularity the last year, reservations should be made as soon as possible. This is Italian cuisine, not French.
Francette
Right by the water, they have different seating options. It is expensive since it is very close to the Eiffel Tower.
Saint Germain
Musée D'Orsay This is a popular museum that gets very crowded and yes, get tickets in advance, be ready for the line to go trough security, and go very early in the morning.
Institute of France
This is a cultural center, my favorite since you find entertainment, quality, and no crowds.
Musee Delacroix
Gorgeous, small museum, for a pleasent and quick 20 min visit. Little garden is also very cute! This is the type of museum that you should do when you go for a walk, with a cup of coffee, it will add an element of entertainment and enrich your experience.
Monnaie de Paris
Exquisite rooms, classic French architecture and details. Huge pieces of art that will create an impact, and other exhibits. This is a 45 min visit.
Food in Saint Germain:
This neighborhood is very foodie, and there are so many options that is very hard to make a decision. I think that that also has a good side, which is exploring and making your own choices. I will list only three options that are popular, but equally good.
Ralph Lauren Cafe
You have porbably heard of this one, they have locations in different parts of the world, such as nyc, but this location is spectacular. The outdoor dining set up is precious. I recommend for breakfast early in the morning, as soon as it opens, to get that peaceful early hour atmosphere.
Les Deux Magots
They do not accept reservations, there are lines to get a table, but is lunch break, and you want that bubbly ambiance of people talking, dishes and utensils clicking, glasses of wine.
Boullion Cartier
THIS IS A CLASSIC, they don’t accept reservations, and sometimes lines to get in are long. This place is famous for its affordable menu and its Belle Epoque style. Starters from €1, main courses starting at €7, ice creams and desserts from €2. A proper meal in Paris for less than €20,
A day trip to Versailles:
Visit this UNESCO World Heritage. As for now Versailles is open every day except on Mondays, unless this changes any time soon, always check the official website for updated opening hours and prices.
How to go to Versailles from Paris?
The easiest, most efficient way is using the RER train. There are several stops throughout the center of Paris, so where to get in the train depends on your location. Once you are at the station, purchase the train ticket, and remember to validate it not only when you enter the platform but also when you exit it. On the way back it is the same process, otheriwse you could get fined. If the machine that validates the ticket doesn't work, tell the official working there, and they will stamp it by hand.
It takes about 45 min to get to Versailles depending on location. Once you get out at Gare de Versailles Rive Droite, there is a 5 minute walk to the entrance of the palace. To enter the gates of the palace there is a security line, it takes about five minutes. Then there are a few lines separated by entry ticket times, so if you are there for a 2 p.m entry, make sure you are lining up where the 2.p.m sign is. Sometimes because lines are very long you can't tell tem apart, so go to the very beggining of the line and make sure. If you are running one hour late make sure to go all the way to the front and show your ticket, they might let you in without having to make a line for a time that already passed.
Once you enter the main building there is another line to scan your tickets, and after that another security line. Total: 4 lines. For more useful information, Versailles is divided by sections. The main palace has different entrances according to which different area of the palace itself you want to visit. Then, once you exit the main palace to go to the gardens for example, you cannot enter the palace again. Throughout the gardens there are other properties that are very worth it, like the Petit Trianon and Le Grand Trianon amongst others. To go through the gardens to all these different buildings you can either walk, or pay a ticket for a train or pay for your personal golf cart which is 40 euros. The train in Versailles is a very small vehicle with wagons, where it stops is not very clear unless you have the luck to be walking by and spot it. Tickets are purchased with the driver in the moment.
It might sound surprising but Versailles it is not prepared for inclement weather. If it starts raining at any moment there are no tents, no coverage anywhere in the gardens, some food areas located in the gardens are more like stalls intead of physical buildings one can enter. There is not even a cover where the train stops, and what's even worse, even with seats available the driver wanting to rush to get out of the rain will ask you to wait for the next one –under the pouring rain- and leave you there. Since tickets in advance are required and you can't reeschedule your visit, make sure to bring a little umbrella, raincoat and a pair of sneakers with a change of dry clean socks.
The visit takes an entire day if you want to see all the rooms in the main palace, the gardens, and the properties that belong to the gardens. Versailles has picnic areas, you can't bring a lot of food from outside, but you can purchase sandwiches at the food stall, and there are restaurants.
Versailles picnic areas: next to the Lake of the Swiss Guard or on the plain of St. Antoine, between the palace and the Trianon palaces. This all changes from time to time so always make sure to check the official website for updated information.
Hope all these tips on my travel guide to Paris provide you with a great time in the capital of food, love and art ! Au Revoir!
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